Help wanted,front diff failure?

[melli]

Originally posted by dutchEVO6
The repair has been performed today.I had all four bolts in my diff mounted but NONE of them were in one piece,ALL were broken !
I replaced them with 4 M8 30 MM bolts ,class 10.9.
On the original bolts no classification is showed ,so if they are made of a good grade?? I doubt it.
Repair itself is not extremely difficult,but for the first time it is a bit of a puzzle.Had no complications.Did the testdirve and the car drives and sounds perfect again.
I will try to post some pics of the broken bits ,so for those of you who have never seen it you know how it looks.
One happy EVOman
Chris

[oli goon]

Use 12.9 Spec Bolts

[CharlieMac]

My brother in law has just bought an evo 6 GSR and it appears to me to suffer from the same problem described above, I initially suspected the CV joint however the boots seem fine and there appears to be no play in the joint. I have not yet tried to feel the shaft when clunking, will try and do this tonight, will this still work if it's off the ground only reckon it be difficult to get yer hand on the shaft with the car on the ground?

[shocker]

Hi
can this fault happen on a 5 and if so what is the average price you guys have paid to get the bolts done ,
cheers shocker

[broraboy]

Bolts: http://www.ahc-camberley.co.uk/catal...sort=1a&page=3

[Jamie Portugal]

Hi,

I know this thread is old now but having read it all and followed most of the instructions I have today got my transfer box out and about to delve into it.

One question though.

My problem was not a clunking sound but a whining sound that was wheel rotation related but clearly coming from the transfer box. The sound intensified with speed but was constante regardless of being in gear or not.

Transfer box diff oil was burnt and full of metal sludge deposits. It seams clear that the problem and resulting sound comes from in there. Having removed the transfer box, what should I be looking for and any suggestions on fixing it?

[spn]

By the sound of it, the crownwheel and pinion will have worn, possibly due to one of the bearings failing, possibly due to lack of oil.

The wear on the CWP should be apparent when you strip it. You'll probably need to replace them and any faulty bearings but if the wear is not too bad, you may be able to get away with it.

Cheers,

Simon

[Jamie Portugal]

Hey Simon,

thanks for that. Sounds spot on. On my way up to the garage now to have a look at the dismounted Transfer Case. If it's either the CWP or the bearings, how easy are they to replace and any suggestions on where I can buy the parts from?

Fastforward to 2 hours later: I've been to the garage and the ball bearings are whole. The roller bearings are intact but a bit chared. The CWP ends are scuffed, but I can't tell how worn they are as I've not seen a new one. Looks fine. Just the ends are slightly scratched. Rough to the touch. Is this enough to have caused the noise? (Whining increasingly with rotation)

When we drained the oil from the Transfer Case, it was black with residue but also, there clearly wasn't the full amount. I'd say it was less than half. Could the noise have been caused by the lack of oil itslef, or would it always be from the resulting wear on the CWP?

Ofcourse, my questions is with new and full oil, may the problem go away, or is the noise definatley from the wear on the CWP?

My Mitsubishi garage has quoted me 3000€ for a whole new transfer case, and are unclear as to getting individual parts.

Any thoughts would be very much welcomed!!

[spn]

It could just be lack of or burnt oil. Have a look at the rear LSD section in the service manual (Evo 7 is best IIRC), this will tell you how to check for tooth alignment and backlash.

You can usually see when the CWP teeth are worn. The faces should be smooth and flat, not jagged or curved.

As for parts, if you can read the part number on the bearings - as usual I didn't make a note of any part numbers - try a bearing supplier or ebay.

If you need a new CWP, FQ performance or Coordsport are probably best. They'd also be able to get you bearings.

Cheers,

Simon

[olympus51342]

Hi , HELP required please in somerset
Problem 1
I have an evo 4 thats starting to bugger me about. When hot and reversing there is a horrible clanking from the front transnission. Do u think it may be the front diff. all was well until I had the engine rebuilt and refitted now it does this. is there any way the diff can be miss aligned following an engine replacement. could it be the brakes binding and knocking the calipers

Problem number 2 - I had a recon rear diff fitted and now it nolonger clanks but now have a horrible whining noise is it a wheel bearing - is noisey in straight line but gets a little quieter when turning left so is it the right hand bearing if so where can i get another and do u need to replace whole hub.

problem 3 - there must be a third everything goes wrong in threes - just cant think what it is
Your help please -mark - an old git gone wilder -

[FAT4S]

Well this front diff problem seems to be contagous cause now i think mine is doing it but a little diffrent as i did here the clunk sound once but now it just kinda shudders when i turn slow or when going strait and when i jack up the front end it is verry hard to turn wheels (i struggle to turn them) is this possably the same thing and could some one email me on how to remove and fix

Thanks
John

[simon_16v]

i have a mint e6 transferbox for sale if any use guys need one

[spn]

Originally Posted by olympus51342

Hi , HELP required please in somerset
Problem 1
I have an evo 4 thats starting to bugger me about. When hot and reversing there is a horrible clanking from the front transnission. Do u think it may be the front diff. all was well until I had the engine rebuilt and refitted now it does this. is there any way the diff can be miss aligned following an engine replacement. could it be the brakes binding and knocking the calipers

Problem number 2 - I had a recon rear diff fitted and now it nolonger clanks but now have a horrible whining noise is it a wheel bearing - is noisey in straight line but gets a little quieter when turning left so is it the right hand bearing if so where can i get another and do u need to replace whole hub.

problem 3 - there must be a third everything goes wrong in threes - just cant think what it is
Your help please -mark - an old git gone wilder -

Sorry, only just seen this.

Hopefuly you've got it sorted by now but problem 1 doesn't sound like the diff, could be the reverse gear idler.

You can check for wheel bearing failure by jacking the car and checking for play in the wheel (rock side to side and top to bottom) and will most likely feel rough when turned. Could be the diff again though - AYC plates dirty.

Cheers,

Simon

[spn]

Originally Posted by FAT4S

Well this front diff problem seems to be contagous cause now i think mine is doing it but a little diffrent as i did here the clunk sound once but now it just kinda shudders when i turn slow or when going strait and when i jack up the front end it is verry hard to turn wheels (i struggle to turn them) is this possably the same thing and could some one email me on how to remove and fix

Thanks
John

It's probably a tight plated front diff you have fitted should give lovely drive out of the corners.

Try changing the gearbox oil and using atleast some LSD oil.

Alternatively, if it's a torsen or open, the diff could have totally destroyed itself.

Cheers,

Simon

[FAT4S]

thanks simon

i am going to attempt pulling it apart this weekend as a guy who used to have an evo6 rally car seems to think its loose bolts and yeah he said its a tight plated diff wich explains the shudder feeling when im going slow but if i excelerate when turning and then back off quickly it clunks wich he said is because the bolts are loose.

so with luck ill fix it or totally stuff it

cheers
john