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Old 17-05-2017, 14:02   #1
tazzi
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Link G4 vs standard ecu remap??

what's the pros and cons of the link over the standard ecu? Are there gains to be made by the link bhp wise that can't be made by the standard ecu??
When aiming for 450bhpish will the link stand a better chance of achieving better figures?
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Old 17-05-2017, 14:21   #2
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Stock ecu will do that no problem, the link will have better motorsport features, link is a great aftermarket ecu vs £££
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Old 17-05-2017, 14:23   #3
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Also choose what ever your mapper is happiest working with
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Old 18-05-2017, 07:59   #4
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Link knock control doesn't work properly.
Stock is infinitely better.

http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?...plug-in-evo-6/


Funny that nobody seems to know that the stock evo knock sensor is a resonant type and has a frequency of about 12KHz.

That's if you understand what the gods are saying in the link.
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Old 18-05-2017, 09:19   #5
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It's actually 13, if you the windowing and threshold table is set right you shouldn't have issues
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Old 18-05-2017, 13:36   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbn1979 View Post
It's actually 13, if you the windowing and threshold table is set right you shouldn't have issues
It's actually just under 12 KHZ.


Where did you get the 13 from?




You just made it up?
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Old 18-05-2017, 09:23   #7
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Though I agree stock has decent knock control it also has its limitations, especially with internal noise, at least with the link you can define these areas
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Old 18-05-2017, 15:09   #8
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So if you were forging for example then OE knock control could pick up noise?

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Though I agree stock has decent knock control it also has its limitations, especially with internal noise, at least with the link you can define these areas
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Old 18-05-2017, 15:34   #9
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So if you were forging for example then OE knock control could pick up noise?
Yes this is an issue - the stock ECU is calibrated against a standard engine. Change *anything* and the knock control may start picking up random noise as knock. Whether it be tappets, cams, a stiff lower engine mount, etc, etc, and definitely if you change the characteristics of the rotating/reciprocating masses - all the "different" noise can induce the stock ECU to retard the timing even if you don't have knock.


I am very, very pleased with the Link G4+ and is one of the best mods I've fitted, even though it doesn't release any more "Power" from my standard-ish engine. It runs it noticeably smoother and the MAF is removed as well and mapped on boost sensor without the need for complex/time consuming VE mapping on the standard ECU.

I'm pretty sure a competent mapper could map in the knock control if required, it needs proper windowing (crank angle sensor window for each cylinder) and background noise settings mapped in, and if mapped properly will detect knock and retard the ignition timing on a single cylinder as opposed to the standard ECU retarding on all 4 cylinders for any single cylinder knock detection. It has to said, though, that a decent mapper wouldn't be mapping a dangerous map that required knock control on the understanding that you always use decent fuel, etc. Twin maps is useful as well for a valet map, low octane fuel map, or just pops,n,bangs....

Yours Aye

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Old 18-05-2017, 15:51   #10
tazzi
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What other features are you using via the link?? Anti lag?? Launch control?
How is the boost changed from high to low, isnthere a controller of via the water spray







UOTE=Rampant;5777485]Yes this is an issue - the stock ECU is calibrated against a standard engine. Change *anything* and the knock control may start picking up random noise as knock. Whether it be tappets, cams, a stiff lower engine mount, etc, etc, and definitely if you change the characteristics of the rotating/reciprocating masses - all the "different" noise can induce the stock ECU to retard the timing even if you don't have knock.


I am very, very pleased with the Link G4+ and is one of the best mods I've fitted, even though it doesn't release any more "Power" from my standard-ish engine. It runs it noticeably smoother and the MAF is removed as well and mapped on boost sensor without the need for complex/time consuming VE mapping on the standard ECU.

I'm pretty sure a competent mapper could map in the knock control if required, it needs proper windowing (crank angle sensor window for each cylinder) and background noise settings mapped in, and if mapped properly will detect knock and retard the ignition timing on a single cylinder as opposed to the standard ECU retarding on all 4 cylinders for any single cylinder knock detection. It has to said, though, that a decent mapper wouldn't be mapping a dangerous map that required knock control on the understanding that you always use decent fuel, etc. Twin maps is useful as well for a valet map, low octane fuel map, or just pops,n,bangs....

Yours Aye

Mark H[/QUOTE]
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Old 18-05-2017, 16:08   #11
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What other features are you using via the link?? Anti lag?? Launch control?
How is the boost changed from high to low, isnthere a controller of via the water spray
Extra features?

MAF removed - load mapped via boost.
Closed loop boost works perfectly fine for me.
I have true sequential ignition on my Coil-on-Plug setup.
And pops'n'bangs via a second map via the ICS Auto switch. Second map is basically the same boost and timing as the main map except for the low load for mortar and machine gun fire
My Mrs calls me a child. I agree. It's hilarious.

That is all I need. Perhaps Open Loop boost control would be a very slight enhancement and knock control could be mapped, but for my road car I don't deem it as a necessity since I always use Nitro+ or Momentum fuel.

Yours Aye

Mark H
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Old 18-05-2017, 13:50   #12
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Course I made it up If you don't know why it's 13 that's your problem
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Old 19-05-2017, 06:08   #13
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The thing about the Link boost control is you can't just ask it for an open loop (active feedback loop) without setting up the closed loop properly first.

You need to map the boost on closed loop (simple duty cycle mapping) *accurately" for 3 different boost levels.

If you want a boost control of, say, 1.8bar there needs to be an accurate table for duty cycle requirements for 1.7; 1.8 & 1.9 bar.

The Open loop system for 1.8 bar then uses this table as an initial target duty, and then also uses the table as a bracketing system to calculate the correction values to achieve a feedback controlled 1.8 bar so that it doesn't overshoot or undershoot when adding extra random or uncalculated duty to ramp up, for instance, from 1.75 to 1.8...

Hope that makes sense. It is a good system, but just needs the understanding of how it works.
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Old 19-05-2017, 07:03   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rampant View Post
The thing about the Link boost control is you can't just ask it for an open loop (active feedback loop) without setting up the closed loop properly first.

You need to map the boost on closed loop (simple duty cycle mapping) *accurately" for 3 different boost levels.

If you want a boost control of, say, 1.8bar there needs to be an accurate table for duty cycle requirements for 1.7; 1.8 & 1.9 bar.

The Open loop system for 1.8 bar then uses this table as an initial target duty, and then also uses the table as a bracketing system to calculate the correction values to achieve a feedback controlled 1.8 bar so that it doesn't overshoot or undershoot when adding extra random or uncalculated duty to ramp up, for instance, from 1.75 to 1.8...

Hope that makes sense. It is a good system, but just needs the understanding of how it works.
Yeah I know what you're saying.. Its so much better now as it is, I think I'll leave it on closed loop passive..

I have 100% faith in the tuner, sure he would of done what you're saying, he's done loads of link (amongst others) over many years and my car is the first to suffer like this.

I have 3 different switchable boost levels/maps on the car in case it's wet etc 1,1.5 and 2.2 so sure he set it up on 3 levels.
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Old 04-07-2017, 12:31   #15
tazzi
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Need to make a decision.

Need to make a decision as car is going in in a couple of weeks. Do I get my standard ecu remapped or go with the link that Norris is highly recommending.
Does it justify the extra £1650 over getting the standard ecu done??
Help!!!

I mean is it set up in such a way that if there is even the slightest thing going wrong the engine will go into limp mode so no damage is done! Will it make more power with the link then it would with the standard one??
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