So had my 6 at dynotech today having issues with the car suddenly running lean high rpms 6.5k+ at 0.7bar (ish)
have changed the fuel pump wiring to nevereverman hardwire kit
changed to new walbro pump
changed to known good fpr
tested injector resistor pack all resistance is coming back 6ohms so all good
new 8mr bov
new sas gasket
new fuel filter's
new avcr solenoid
will be looking into the condition of the main fuel lines from tank to engine bay as the cars had shell swap and possibly slightly bent in the process
also has evo 4 fuel tank
will be doing boost leak smoke test & checking fuel lines from tank to engine bay
thought id ask the mlr massive advise where else to look :smthumbup
Taking into account of how important a role spark plugs play I do not think there is point in saving on them at all and you can get a set of HKS Superfire Racing plugs for £55 or so.
I will Pm you re Tactrix when I get a minute to find links.
well, I have never noticed any real change when mapping cars on stock E9 pump and 255.. that is what I base my opinion on... I might as well be wrong but I will know for sure soon enough...
as I said.. it is not only the fpr but the whole system..
So fitted a new walbro 255 pump today also connected the hardwire kit checked fuel lines around the fuel pipe and along the underside to the bulkhead
Still have the same issue.
One thing to notice I removed the fuel return pipe underside of the car at rear pumped 2 bar into the fuel rail and in 1 minute the return pushed back 2.5litres of petrol with some air mixed in possible it was running the tank dry as not much left inside
Don't know why you're wasting your effort swapping pumps again when it's obvious that by fitting a walbro, your idle pressure has gone up by 6 ish PSI.
It makes the fuel trims try to lean it out at low load then it's too lean at high load and the plugs end up sooty on the body.
"Opinion" doesn't factor into it.
It's FACT.
A stock pump idles at 33 PSI.
A walbro will idle at 38 or 39 ish PSI.
As you can see from the gauge.
It doesn't take an Einstien to figure out that you fkcued it up.
But it's not the only problem because it never is.
By eliminating the "known" problems, you only get left with the "unknown" problems to sort out.
So Fred, how is a larger pump overcome on the later models then? You've still not answered my question? Edit the post above if it's posts you don't have. I think a lot of what you say on some of these threads is good advice. But you sometimes seem to ramble. Would you mind also updating your opinion on the forged piston thread. Many thanks
The 'norm' is to fit a hardwire kit as grants suggested as it just means you know you always have a nice constant feed of battery power, rather than the stock voltage switching one.
I normally make a hard wire kit to fit next to the pump wiring under the carpet on the offside rear just by the rear bench. Then it's easy to pick up the stock power feed as a trigger for the relay :smthumbup
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